The Cave of Zeus!

Far up into the ranges surrounding the Lassithi Plateau, is Psychro Cave, otherwise known as the Cave of Zeus. While 2 or 3 other sites in Crete also lay claim to this honour, Psychro Cave is where legend has it that Zeus was born. 

We drive up and up from one of the Plateau villages, park the car in what, in-season, is a large parking lot, usually filled with cars and tour buses, surrounded by cafes and trinket shops. On this day, it is empty, save for one other rental car and a herd of goats and many, many feral cats. Quite hilarious as the herd scatters away from us, their throat bells ringing as they run for the hills. As we sit and eat our lunch prior to our ascent, another herd comes down the pathway and we decide to save our carrots in case we need to redirect them as we make our way up.

Of course one of the cafes is called Zeus, and thankfully all the stores, and even the washrooms are shut tight.

We climb and climb and climb, eventually reaching more than 1000 meters above sea level. Close to the beginning we see a sign that tells us "donkey rides make the climb easier €10",  and I begin to wish we were in-season. 30 minutes later, we make it to the top. The view of the Plateau way below us is spectacular, and Marc reminds me, "this is why we're doing this trip now. In 5 or 10 years, we won't be able to do this climb!" Hugs all 'round.

We've forgotten that sites like this close early in the off-season, we arrive at the ticket counter at 2:20 pm, the cave closes at 3. Trying not to be disappointed that we won't be able to tary, we approach the cave entrance and are astounded at its depth, the map of chambers, the stalacites  and stalagmites we can see in the dim distance. 

A cult cave since the Neolithic Age, and also used by the Minoans during their last blast as a culture, it was first discovered in the 1880s and excavations revealed tools, pots, bones, evidence of fires, precious stones and metals, and an altar surrounded by votive offerings. These are now all kept in the Heraklion Museum. This place is immense and reminds us of our cave swimming in Belize with the kids. There are more than 8,000 caves throughout Crete, many revealing habitation since ancient times. 

On our way out, back through the winding switchbacks descending from the Plateau, the open but empty Homo Sapiens Museum, a Cretan Disneyland. We stop for the parking lot sign, but do not go in!