Sunday, January 3, 2016

St. Peter's Square and Basilica

On the afternoon of December 23, we had the great fortune of arriving into St. Peter's Basilica just as the Vatican Orchestra and Men's and Boy's Choir were rehearsing for Midnight Mass.  You can  listen here to Adeste Fideles, which they rehearsed in full, while we were there, we spent a moment in sweet embrace wishing each other a Merry Christmas in Rome.

The Square is exactly as we imagined, but nothing can quite prepare you for the sheer size of it all.  117 Saints circle you from above, the towering dome with interior painted by Michelangelo, the size of the Nativity Scene and Christmas tree with decorations representing all of the children's charities and hospitals in Rome. The Pope's balcony, 2 storeys high, the velvet red curtains. We squat on a step and eat our picnic lunch, sip our packed hot tea and coffee, recovering from the Vatican Museum tour this same morning.


 

Each year, the Nativity Scene in St. Peter's Square reflects the annual message and Jubillee Year established by the Church. In this Jubillee Year of Mercy, and with the Pope's Christmass message center inn on world peace and refugees, this scene is particularly moving.  Marc has just clued in days before that the baby Jesus is not placed in the crib until Christmas Eve midnight mass!  "Someone's been stealing the babies!", he eventually queries.




Inside, we are immediately breathless, by the sheer size and decoration: sculptures, paintings, tombs - almost 200 meters long, 15,000 square feet. Michelangelo's Pieta - completed at age 29! - which I've written about previously. Unfortunately, most of the church is cordoned off in preparation for Midnight Mass, so we can only gaze in awe from afar, but the accompanying choir and orchestra rehearsal adds a level of beauty I could never have imagined.


This bronze altarpiece, towering 30 meters high, envelopes the altar where only the Pope is allowed to say Mass. The altar itself sits on the grave of St. Peter. 


Even the floor grates are large and decorative!


Michelangelo's ceiling.


The choir rehearsing Adeste Fideles, oh Come All Ye Faithful!



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