We save Basilica di Santa Croce, the 14th century Franciscan church, for last - 2 days before our departure from Florence. For us, the facade and the Piazza have come to symbolize all that is social about Florence. We often rest upon its front steps, watching Florentine life pass by. It's also where you can come to understand the flood of 1966, devastating for the artworks of Florence, many of which are still removed and under restoration. More than 4 meters of water flooded this Piazza and Basilica, and the photos of mud, crews of men shovelling, uprooted trees, all sorts of deritrius, troops of people ferrying precious artworks to safety are images we will remember.
Historically, for centuries, the social life has transformed the square- games of strength, animal battles, pageants in support of heads of state and religious leaders, executions, horse races and more recently soccer matches, parades and the start / finish to the recently held Firenze Marathon.
On one of our first nights in Florence, friends from Ste. Anne de Bellevue, Quebec, arrive in Florence on their whirlwind, spontaneous 1 week tour. We choose their Piazza to have our dinner, facing the Basilica, and itis so comforting to have friends, conversation in English upon our arrival. It is a fun, fun night. Within days, the Piazza is transformed into the most famous Christmas market, with upwards of 40 food, clothing and trinket stalls festooned in colourful wares and lights. We return to this square innumerable times on our way home at night after long days of exploring.
It is here that I taste Lamprodotto, the Tuscan poor-man's lunch. I've seen so many line-ups at street carts, gotta try it! Well worth it, squishy, saucy, dripping, gently spicey meat-on-a-bun cooked right in front of you on a griddle. Delicious! Getting home, I look it up, and it is tripe!, the meat and muscle of the cow's 4th stomach. UGH! I love the word Lamprodotto better, so that is what it shall be. It was delicious.
The interior of Basilica di Santa Croce is famous from the scenes in A Room with a View, where Lucy is stranded without an escort or a book guide. It is home to the tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli and Ghiberti, as well as a statue that is purported to be the inspiration of the Statue of Liberty. A beautiful, beautiful church inside.
Michelangelo's tomb
Thought to be the inspiration for the Statue of Liberty
Galileo's tomb, where he was laid to rest 100 years after his death. Such a sad end to his life, a man of principles at the wrong time.
The altar
From the Vatican Museum
There are 2 cloisters off to the side, including once of Brunelleschi's last designs, the Chapel, considered the finest example of Renaissance architecture, designed by Brunelleschi a few years before his death.
Notable too, is the adjoining leather school, Scuola del Cuoio, where for the last 40 years a single family is reviving the ancient arts of leather craft using hundred year old tools, curing methods, and designs. You can walk through the school looking at students of all ages, both genders, from all around the world learning the trade. The finished pieces, bags, boots, jackets, clothing, adornments, are priced waaaay out of reach. They are pieces of art.
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