To Rome!

This lovely, calm photo of the view out of our next AirBnB window certainly belies the chaos of arrival the day before. Poor Marc, my human GPS. Let me tell you, there is no one better to travel with than Marc Wolvin, the human map. He searches and searches for routes, memorizing maps, public transit options, whether walks are uphill or down, takes into consideration my energy levels, impatience, need for patient wandering. Nothing could have prepared him for the transit system of Rome. Home to 4 million people, it is a maze of routes of buses, trams, trains, light rail, urban, suburban and outer-city limits. Daunting!

Our departure began easily enough, so familiar with the routes within Florence. Once aboard our train, things began to fall apart. Another train is cancelled, delaying ours, while those passengers boarded to stand in the aisles. Much moaning, groaning and Italian swearing by all passengers. At one point we were ordered off, next we were told to stay. None of this is in English, and Marc's now passable Italian got us through this part. 

On our way, and we arrive, already late for meeting our host. Marc has mapped the public bus (don't forget, we're travelling without phones or wifi for our tablets!), and he's confident we can get there without a problem. We lug our 2 suitcases through more cobblestone around the massive train station (where a 2-storey high bronze effigy of a pope greets us in the square), and we find our bus. It's not yet dark. Happy to be aboard, we find the system is different, no electronic signs saying "prossima fermata", next stop. He knows however that we need to cross the Tiber River, the bus will turn, and 

our stop is next. Only it doesn't turn. We end up about 4 stops beyond where we need to be before we clue in. 

A long distance, stressed out, now dark, no idea where we really are, lugging our worldly possessions behind us. Romans are not really helpful! We take breaks walking back, stopping in at various businesses to make sure we're on track. Finally, finally, we make it. Our hosts are very happy to see us, Joe, a retired geologist and his wife Lorenza, an artist.  They've left us food and wine with promises to check in with us in the morning. What a relief!

Our little kitchen, where Christmas dinner will be served!

A studio slightly outside of the city center, we chose it because it has a big, beautiful bath tub, the only one in our price range. And it's away from the crazy center of Rome. This decision will be a challenge to us for the first half of our stay here as we figure out the transit system. It rarely goes well!

Our cupboard doors remind us of Sophie and  a project she might love!

Remember Marc's search for the baby Jesus? Even our neighbourhood pizza shop knows the tale! That's a pizza-dough crèche! 

And our first grocery shop in Rome, Marc has gone 5 weeks without peanut butter. 350 grams = $8 Canadian, while our cauliflower is less than $1 - at a time when I know it's $8 in Canada!

Day 41, & our last night in Florence

Ahh, Florence. What a gentle, soft landing place to recover from a hard year of change. To embark on this dream trip from here, to finally see all the art, music and history we've both been dreaming about for decades. Our little apartment on Borgo de Croce has been a beautiful cocoon for us as we gather our travel legs, live out of 1 suitcase, adjust to life on the move, get used to not having our children, family and friends near. It's been an incredible 5 weeks, exactly as we dreamed.

Of course we head out on the #13 bus, to head up, up to the hills, to catch the sunset. We started our first night up here! Piazza Michelangelo. We are not disappointed. The stairs are filled with young people, a guitar busker is singing John Lennon's Imagine as we arrive. Lovers are kissing. Hawkers are selling their wares, but mostly, people are quietly enjoying the beautiful view and the passing of the sun from this day.

And surprise, surprise! I've snagged us free tickets to the Christmas Concert of the season in Chiesa Santa Maria Novella, a church we haven't been into yet! Marc's a good sport! We line up early, 10th or so in line, knowing that first come, first served seating is a gladiator race with the Italians! We are not disappointed, 2nd row. 

The altar.

How can you not be moved by music being played in these spaces?

And after recently experienced a pang of missing all the young people in our lives - through Marc's coaching and my high school work - isn't it a concert by the Florence Youth Orchestra and Young People's Choir! Everyone on stage is between the ages of 7 and 20, just as if the Christmas Angels heard our wish. The orchestra is incredible...if you think about it, studying their instrument in Florence!

A great end to our time here!
December 19, 2015:

So, we've just spent our last night in Florence...5 weeks! As Christmas gets closer, Nativity scenes are being installed everywhere, life-size, elaborate, beautiful. A few days ago, Marc comments, "someone's stealing all the baby Jesuses in Italy." I burst out laughing..."whaaaaat?", he asks, and I proceed to explain. We see another one tonight, Monty Pythonesque ensues.

And here I thought I'd be the target of St. Peter's Square lightning bolts, pestilence or the ground jawing open beneath my feet. I'm actually good to go! Onward to Rome in the morning!

December 21, 2015: To the young people in our lives, whom we miss!, #wishesareglobal, tagging some to reach all.

Santa Maria Novella, the train station in Florence, Italy, puts up a tree every season that travellers turn into a Wishing Tree. The notes, in every language, written on torn-out journal pages, the backs of receipts and saved placemats, reminded us of so many of you!

Whether you're recovering from exams, still touched by Harry Potter, or on a quest like our philosopher Argon here (his Carlini reference?: Jazz, science, sculptor or nun = your pick!), Marc and I wish you all a Merry Christmas!

If one of our children ends up on your step looking for a Star, please offer them room at your Inn!
Love to you(s),
Mama & Papa Wolvin

Bells, nuns and...cars

What we notice first about Florence are the church bells. They ring throughout the city, all together, every hour, every half hour, announcing the beginnings of masses, and their ends. It is a beautiful cacophony and adds to the life of the city. No two sets of bells sound the same, from the small, single bell of a poorer church to the multiple tones and volumes of the wealthiest. We wonder if this still occurred in North America, whether spirituality would have more of a voice in our lives - not religious, just spiritual. There's something about those bells that give you pause, Mark your day, move your eyes upward.

here's what we listened to outside our window every day, beginning at 8:45 am. No, it did not become annoying!

Nuns really are everywhere, in every color of habit. The public is deferential, giving them way on sidewalks and road crossings, many blessing themselves as they pass.

I love this photo, passing by the guy with a fistful of cash!

...and gotta stay connected! 

This is in St. Peter's Basilica in Rome on December 23. All sorts of commotion is going on around her with the public, the choir and orchestra in rehearsal...I was lucky to catch her in her moment of quiet. 

And just for good measure, 2 fun cars in Florence...one electric (there are many!), and one restored (there are even more!). And the buses that you don't think can possibly fit, but they do! Gotta be careful their mirrors don't slam you in the head, we had a few close calls! 

Santa Croce, Florence

We save Basilica di Santa Croce, the 14th century Franciscan church, for last - 2 days before our departure from Florence. For us, the facade and the Piazza have come to symbolize all that is social about Florence. We often rest upon its front steps, watching Florentine life pass by. It's also where you can come to understand the flood of 1966, devastating for the artworks of Florence, many of which are still removed and under restoration. More than 4 meters of water flooded this Piazza and Basilica, and the photos of mud, crews of men shovelling, uprooted trees, all sorts of deritrius, troops of people ferrying precious artworks to safety are images we will remember. 

Historically, for centuries, the social life has transformed the square- games of strength, animal battles, pageants in support of heads of state and religious leaders, executions, horse races and more recently soccer matches, parades and the start / finish to the recently held Firenze Marathon.

On one of our first nights in Florence, friends from Ste. Anne de Bellevue, Quebec, arrive in Florence on their whirlwind, spontaneous 1 week tour. We choose their Piazza to have our dinner, facing the Basilica, and itis so comforting to have friends, conversation in English upon our arrival. It is a fun, fun night. Within days, the Piazza is transformed into the most famous Christmas market, with upwards of 40 food, clothing and trinket stalls festooned in colourful wares and lights. We return to this square innumerable times on our way home at night after long days of exploring. 

It is here that I taste Lamprodotto, the Tuscan poor-man's lunch. I've seen so many line-ups at street carts, gotta try it! Well worth it, squishy, saucy, dripping, gently spicey meat-on-a-bun cooked right in front of you on a griddle. Delicious! Getting home, I look it up, and it is tripe!, the meat and muscle of the cow's 4th stomach. UGH! I love the word Lamprodotto better, so that is what it shall be. It was delicious.

The interior of Basilica di Santa Croce is famous from the scenes in A Room with a View, where Lucy is stranded without an escort or a book guide. It is home to the tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli and Ghiberti, as well as a statue that is purported to be the inspiration of the Statue of Liberty. A beautiful, beautiful church inside. 

Michelangelo's tomb

Thought to be the inspiration for the Statue of Liberty

Galileo's tomb, where he was laid to rest 100 years after his death. Such a sad end to his life, a man of principles at the wrong time.

The altar

At night, from our favourite perch, Piazza de Michelangelo on our last night.

From the Vatican Museum

There are 2 cloisters off to the side, including once of Brunelleschi's last designs, the Chapel, considered the finest example of Renaissance architecture, designed by Brunelleschi a few years before his death.

Notable too, is the adjoining leather school, Scuola del Cuoio, where for the last 40 years a single family is reviving the ancient arts of leather craft using hundred year old tools, curing methods, and designs. You can walk through the school looking at students of all ages, both genders, from all around the world learning the trade. The finished pieces, bags, boots, jackets, clothing, adornments, are priced waaaay out of reach. They are pieces of art.

Pieta, times two, Michelangelo

Considered Michelangelo’s first true masterpiece, his sculpture of The Pieta. There are 3 in existence, and we've had the fortune to see 2 of them, his last sculpture done in his late 80s and meant for his own tomb, and his first, executed at the age of 24.

This is a familiar image to many, whether they have traveled to St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome to see it, or not.  Fearing people would not believe his skill, Michelangelo carved his name down Mary’s sash to prove that he indeed was the sculptor.  Here, Mary gazes down at the body of her son, lying in her lap, as if he were a little boy who fell asleep. In fact, it's Michelangelo's depiction of the moments after he was lifted down from the cross. I will let the photos speak, just as we got closer and closer. It's behind bullet-proof plexi-glass after a 1972 hammer attack.

Michelangelo's signature on Mary's sash

Carved from one piece of marble, including Mary's hand.

Remember this bronze bust we saw in the Bargello, commissioned by Michelangelo's nephew just before his death? Remember this face for the next Pieta.

Michelangelo returned to the theme of the Pieta many times in his life. He struggled with his faith, yet is responsible for some of the most famous depictions of the Bible's stories. Approaching his death at age 89, this next Pieta represents his last great sculpture, and he includes himself as the tall figure standing at the back. He intended this to adorn his own tomb, but it does not. It is now housed in its own room in the Museo del Duomo.

Spectacular.